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Showing posts with label Lake Como. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lake Como. Show all posts
Saturday, September 11, 2010
A North Woods Sky
We are sitting next to the large purple buddleia. It's dusky smell making itself known when allowed by the stiffening breeze coming off Sturgeon Bay. Behind us I hear the drunken drone of bumble bees as they gorge themselves amidst a towering bed of foxgloves. Further still is the clatter of crockery in the kitchen and the tinkle of patinaed and crumbling temple bells, from both another continent and time. Strange how the smallest of things from our travels stick with us while larger accumulations and people come and go.
In the green waters below the smallish limestone cliff, the children move through the water. A summers sun has left them walnut hued. Dark hair slicked and shining lends them the appearance of otters at play. I squint across the water at the point where I think the sun will set and grab my Manhattan from the greenest of grass.
A visit to a northern latitude seemed essential. In the death throes of August the heat had taken on a predatory menace. Scorching the dew in the morning and suffocating the night sky. Friends had withdrawn into bunker mode and the streets appeared deserted at mid day. The South seemed a ghost town. Once again our beautiful cuffs gave way to knit short sleeves
Up here, on a narrow peninsula that probes outward into a great lake there is a crispness to the landscape. Birch trees shimmer in their silver way and a crackling fire pit is a worthy companion. The landscapes colours give a new inspiration of greys and purples, the deepest of blues, and cremes. We have drinks each night and do nothing more demanding than wait for the sun to lower itself into the water. By day I glass the same water with a pair of Swarovskis. Looking for tall ships to appear from the horizon as if transposed from Botany Bay. Late afternoons are spent in a wooden boat looking for light houses and hidden coves.
Days of idleness and reading are interspersed with visits to local watering holes (mostly the fishing hole where we drink Leinies and wear out CCR on the jukebox). A trip to Palmer Johnson finds us salivating over the shipyard and planning delivery of our Imperial Black Global Exploration yacht build.
As darkness settles and the wind picks up a lightweight cashmere is thrown on from our guys in Como. We lay on our backs and catch the flares of the summers last meteors. Watching as they move briefly and brilliantly against the slow tracking of satellites. There is little light pollution here and the sky is teaming with stars. Stories of very different times and different travels are traded. On this jut of land and against the dark twinkling of the sky we are a small group with a strange collection of accents and citizenships. Nomads around a fire already feverishly dreaming the next place.
Sunday, November 15, 2009
the dinner guest that never left
I stumbled across Silvia's great place Mamma Ciccia while in Mandello. A couple of lefts and a right down some tight alleys and you are there. Silvia's brother cooks an ever changing menu (perch from Lake Como, pastas the lightness of air, and a mean apple torte). Their cousin, could tell us a thing or two about shirts and quietly presides over the 5 tables and bar. Pouring beautiful local wines and the odd glass of Laphroaig he joins me at the table and talks about the best places to put a monogram.
Silvia et al are in the midst of re-doing several rooms in the apartments above. Just like the owners, the rooms are smart, stylish, and impeccable. What better place to sleep off the kitchens labors than upstairs?
A quick walk down to the quay and its back to the room where I fall asleep to bells ringing in the square. Not quite the excitement of a mixed route in the Cham valley but we do what we can. This might be in my top 5 of places to disappear for a week. On a rainy and cold Northern Italian evening I can't think of a better place to be. Have a look at their site about "the idea". Lovely words.
E.M.M.
Friday, November 13, 2009
Plan B- A Pilgrimage of Sorts
By now its lashing down with rain and I vaguely follow signs to Como where our seven fold ties are being made (save that meeting for a later date) and beyond to the farther reaches of the lake.
When I finally stop and ask for directions in Lecco, the attractive girl at the Agip station doesn't understand me entirely (who does?) but the way that she say "Mandello del Lario" and points to the north absolutely floors me. In my mind this is how the name will always sound, in a soft, hushed, reverential manner. I race through the lakeside tunnels, watching the cliff tops drift in and out as the clouds roll by- and then I am there. The building seems implausible, who would put a motorcycle factory at the base of a Mountain and at the shores of a beautiful lake? The Guzzi folks of course: Moto Guzzi
It is an old world factory in every sense of the word. From its Italian airforce Eagle flying overhead to its vaguely Wonkaesque red door. It is everything that it should be and so much more. I know that supposedly old men in smelly leathers ride them, that Guzzi appear to continuously flirt with insolvency, and that replacement parts are the stuff of myth. It doesn't matter. This place oozes soul and history. I keep waiting for a mad hatter to stroll through the gates.
Instead I get Burtie(?) in a red jumpsuit who informs me that the gates close at 3:00 as does the museum tour (its now 4:00) He then tells me that they haven't used their much lauded wind tunnel in years as it makes the lights in the town blink on and off. I still stare at the doors and I am that much more mystified by this quiet town and its quiet brand as dusk and rain settle in. For a brief Guzzi History:guzzista
E.M.M.
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